Sahara diary PartIV

[dinahsmum]

Tuesday

Still fairly windy so breakfast, similar to the previous day’s, was taken in the communal tent, not outside. The toilet tents did not survive the night, although they were apparently in a safe place ready for transportation to the next camp, rather than flown to Tunisia, so morning ablutions had to take place in private spots in the dunes. Amid ‘what did you do during the great wind storm?’ stories we set off on a slightly amended route, to avoid soft sand. The general mood was rather subdued and even our morning exercises failed to raise the spirits. However, as the temperature rose, the wind fell and with every layer of clothes we were able to shed we became more animated. I think it was the prospect of battling the elements for the rest of the week which made us rather quiet and reflective!
By lunchtime the calm weather had returned and so had our good spirits. The afternoon walk was long but was over areas of alternating soft sand and gentle dunes and hamada. The hammada in this area was full of fossils and the light was incredibly clear, giving excellent opportunities for photographs. After the trials of the previous night and the start of the day we were grateful to be enjoying ourselves once more. This was the session which felt most like a tourist trip!
Camp was established on an area of hammada, which meant that the tent spaces needed to be raked clear prior to the tents' erection. Once again, the presence of fortifying mint tea and arrowroot biscuits was a great inspiration.
As we rested before the evening meal we became aware of drumming and singing coming from the campfire that the guides had built. Several of us went out into the night to witness the spectacle. It was tremendous to see and hear the group of about a dozen men producing such a melodic result by clapping, singing and drumming on improvised instruments such as gerry cans, water containers and saucepans. We returned after dinner, with practically all the walkers, and spent a very enjoyable couple of hours. Sadly, when the Brits were asked to take an active part and sing something, there was an embarrassing silence, followed by abortive attempts at Yellow Submarine, the Hokey Kokey, Football’s Coming Home. Finally someone came up with a song we all seemed to know and could join in with gusto – American Pie!
A day which ended much better than it began.

Distance Covered 19km


Wednesday

After an uneventful night and the usual robust breakfast we completed our warm up exercises, packed up the camp and set off down a gully onto the desert floor. There were several short and steep climbs, some on sand and some on our particular non-favourite, hammada. Vegetation was sparse but we stopped for lunch under an acacia tree, the only large tree for miles. We had made good time and were promised a two hour break, which gave time to rest or, for many of us, to bring diaries and journals up to date. It was a pleasant change to write in daylight rather than attempt to do it by torchlight.
Half way through our allotted break a single fluffy cloud drifted in. It was very noticeable in an otherwise clear, bright sky. Then thin strands of cloud started to gather to the west. Our guides became anxious and said that we should set off as a storm was coming. So we abandoned our lazy lunch, retrieved warm clothes from the camels and set off. In no time we were in the middle of another sandstorm. We increased the number of layers we were wearing, tied our shaash firmly round our faces, fixes sunglasses (one girl even had ski goggles – we were impressed with her foresight) and walked into the wind. The walk into camp was all uphill and all on hammada. It took us about three hours almost as a route march as we had to keep well together, to avoid losing any stragglers. About halfway we came across the mummified remains of a camel which had obviously not survived a previous journey. The poor beast was lying on its side, with its head thrown back exposing an array of white teeth. Some of its skin remained in a dried state and in places bleached white bones were visible. This sight made us redouble our efforts to hurry into camp!
Eventually the camp became visible on the horizon and we were pleased to reach it at about 4pm – earlier than our usual camp time but already becoming very dark. The sanctuary of the tents was very welcome and we watched the worst of the storm blow itself out through the tent flap.
Dinner at 7pm, and everyone ready for an early bed after battling the elements. The storm was easing by 9 o clock and had disappeared by the end of the night.

Distance covered 18km

To be continued