Sahara diary Part V

[dinahsmum]

Thursday

A bright new day dawned and the group set off in high spirits to tackle the highest dune in the area. La Bidette stands some 300 metres above the surrounding land and about 600 metres above sea level. As we neared it we began to realise the challenge ahead. The camels would take an easier route around the dune and anyone who felt unable to reach the top was given the opportunity to walk with the camels. No one wimped out – we all made it to the top. The climb was really tough and we had to concentrate on the toe-first technique. There was one section where the gradient was so steep that there were absolutely no footprints to follow and for every foot gained you slipped back 10 inches! Team spirit came to the fore and the stragglers were encouraged by the frontrunners who were already sitting on the crest. Our rest at the top was punctuated by the unfurling of the Macmillan banner and many photos were taken of the group sitting behind the banner.
All the above was achieved by about 9.30am. It was the literal and metaphorical high spot of the trip leaving everyone feeling exhilarated. The views of rolling dunes in all directions were quite spectacular.
Having reached the top, the next step was to get back down. The sensible route was along the crest, which gave a steady descent on to flatter ground, but there was also the high adrenalin route, taken by about half the group. They laced their boots tightly, made sure their rucksacks were secure, took their courage in both hands and simply took off down the other side! Having started there was no way they could stop until they reached the bottom! It looked to be great fun and the shrieks of delight mixed with terror would appear to support that.
We were told that we were now only 10 kilometres from the Algerian border. The whole day was spent among the dunes in fascinating terrain. There was a surprising amount of vegetation, including one large patch of giant euphorbia bushes, about 8 or 10 feet tall, which we walked through, rather like a field of giant brussel sprout plants. Once again we were told not to touch, the plants were very toxic.
We saw several groups of nomad goatherds in this area. There was a hidden watercourse underground which allowed them to get water for their animals from the wells but our guides told us that the nomads were thinking of moving on because there had been no rain for two years and they were concerned that their supply would run out.
The afternoon walk was energy sapping, being on deep soft sand initially, changing to our favourite rock-field as we approached camp. Once again we were camped near a well and there was water available for showers. A few hardy souls even did a hair wash, standing in the open and using freezing cold well water.
As we did our usual early evening wipe down and clothes change we were summoned from our tents by the shouting and pointing of our guides. They had called us out to look at the moonrise which was simply beautiful. The moon was huge and bright and the speed at which it rose from the horizon was astonishing. After standing to watch for five minutes we turned through 180 degrees to view an almost equally spectacular sunset.
An impromptu auction took place after dinner, only four lots being available. Lot 1 was 3 ice-cold cans of beer, brought with them by the leaders and chilled in the well. Brisk bidding led to the lot being knocked down for £50! Lot 2 was 3 ice-cold beers…. again sold for £50. Unsurprisingly lots 3 and 4 were also 3 cans of beer and at the end of the bidding Macmillan had benefited to the tune of £191.50.
A fairly subdued session of campfire singing ended at 10.10 as the rigours of the day took their toll and the walkers took to their beds.


Distance covered 19km



Friday

Our final day of walking – we were to go through the 100 kilometre mark today. We were surprised to be told that we would stop as soon as we had reached the target – we had assumed that we would stop at an appropriate camping site rather than just complete the challenge and stop immediately. However we had been guided by a GPS system through the journey and it would tell us when we reached 100 kilometres.
We started off on hammada, with yesterday’s dunes to the south and then the landscape changed. The vegetation became more and more sparse and we reached the flat salt pan of Iriki. There used to be a great lake here but it had dried up since the river Draa was dammed to make a reservoir in the High Atlas Mountains. The near distance was totally featureless and the ground beneath our feet was hard like tarmac. In places it was cracked as a result of some rain falling on it and in these places it was like a cobbled street. In the far distance were huge mountains and features like Ayers Rock or like the formations seen on cowboy movies. The heat shimmered above the surface of the salt pan and we saw mirages which make it look as though there were huge waves breaking against the bottom of the rocks.
The area was so featureless that the guides had brought the kitchen tent to provide some shade whilst we enjoyed our last lunch in the desert. The meal was of the usual amazing standard and, having made good time in the morning we were allowed an extra period for relaxation.
The leaders went on ahead to prepare the ‘finishing line’ and we were asked not to dribble through in our usual style as we reached camp, but to join together and pass under the banner as a group. The land was so flat that we could see where we would stop even though we wouldn’t reach it for two and a half hours.
When the leaders reached camp they tied a silvered bag (which had originally held snack time goodies) to a string and set it flying in the breeze. It soared high and caught the light beautifully and we could see it fluttering all the while we walked in.
As we gathered together ready to cross the finish line we were joined by a group of 3 or 4 swallows who wheeled and dived around us, sometimes swooping around our heads, sometimes skimming the ground around our feet and sometimes hovering inches from our faces, almost looking into our eyes. It was a strange experience and we didn't really know whether they were pleased to see us or were threatening us. One walker was convinced that they had been in Devon with her over the summer! In general there was little wildlife through the walk, and that which we saw was very shy.
At almost exactly 3 o clock the 52 walkers passed under the finish barrier, in five waves. A strange atmosphere descended, of exhilaration at having completed the challenge but also a flat, empty feeling and the realisation that the adventure was almost over.
Plenty of time to relax, to complete diaries and exchange addresses with new found friends.
The wine had failed to last the week; so an audit of the duty frees still around showed a supply of gin, vodka, Drambuie and brandy! All was not lost!
Dinner was a happy occasion, with gratuities presented to our guides and them responding by giving us another singing and drumming session. This all took place in the big tent as the wind was springing up again.


Distance covered 17 kilometres

final section to come